Beautiful different types of parrots

 

Beauty of budgie lovebirds and cocktails mutations

Budgie eid special

Different types of budgerigar mutations

GREEN CHICKEN DZHUNGLEVAYA

Who could have imagined that the chicken could be so beautiful? And the thing is that the green dzhunglevaya chicken (lat. Gallus varius) - the closest relative of the pheasant, in this lies the secret of her bright, colorful attire.

1. Green dzhunglevaya chicken loves the heat and humidity, so it can be found on the banks of ponds and in the rainforest islands of Komodo, Lombok, Bali and Java. In some mysterious way, these birds have disappeared from the western part of the island of Java, but appeared on the small adjacent islands of the Indonesian archipelago. Here she settles in the deep sea caves and mangroves.

2. Green dzhunglevaya chicken - an unusual bird and eats it also is not quite familiar bird food. The basis of its diet is the so-called sand fleas, small crabs, marine insects and even jellyfish. Sometimes dzhunglevaya chicken can eat cactus or starfish.

3. Unlike most members of the family of chicken, green chicken dzhunglevaya feels confident not only on land but also in the air and can fly quite long distances over open water. In these places very strong winds are blowing, and it remains a mystery how dzhunglevym chickens manages not to break the sharp ridges of the coastal cliffs.

4. During low tide dzhunglevye chicken gather in small groups and come ashore to harvest fallen into the trap of marine life thrown tide.Each group was accompanied by a dominant male, who is responsible for the safety of his family.

Decorative Bird Houses

The nesting season is an important time for birds. Its springtime and birds must now turn to nesting. They turn their full attention and energy to nesting during springtime. It is a stressful experience for a bird to move to a new location.  They need to adjust to new sights,  sounds and foods. While birds are amazingly resilient,  there are a number of things you can do to help minimize the stresses of a new home.

It is important that the birdhouse be set up even before you purchase your bird. No matter how simple,  elaborate or decorative,  the most important features are safety,  the location of the birdhouse and the dimensions and shape of the birdhouse and entrance. A good birdhouse must have the following features:

Ventilation holes in the top and drainage holes in the bottom
Absence of a perch by the entrance - perches encourage predators such as cats
Easy to clean - birdhouses should be thoroughly cleaned once a year to remove last year's nest materials and to prevent nest parasites.
 One of the great ways to bring your yard to life with flashes of color,  nature’s music and amusement is to provide your birds with their own private nesting area. You can add a birdhouse to your yard or garden where birds can nest safely without fearing natural predators. A birdhouse also provides shelter and warmth during heavy winds and at times of ferocious storms.

If we can have fancy houses,  then why not birds? So,  be creative,  while choosing a birdhouse. Birdhouses range in style from gazebo and Victorian styles to barns and space shuttles. The design is your choice. You might like to build or purchase a birdhouse that will reflect your personal character. Birds aren’t really interested in architectural design,  but want a birdhouse that will provide safety,  security and easy access.

 Bird population is diminishing in today’s world due to the use of chemicals that are polluting their natural habitat and food supply. Birdhouses protect birds and coupled with well-stocked feeders and a variety of seeds and insects from your garden,  they will find a safe haven in your backyard. In return,  they bring your garden to life with flashes of color,  wonderful songs and comical antics.

 A birdhouse should be well built,  durable,  waterproof,  cool in summer,  warm in winter and easily accessible to birds. Be sure you allow for cleaning when assembling your birdhouse. If you’re planning to purchase one,  look for cracks in the wood,  knots and other defects that will allow water to get inside. If you’re building the house,  use your imagination to create a unique birdhouse that will add a touch of charm to your yard or garden. Nowadays,  many varieties of birdhouses are available in the market ranging from plain and simple to the elaborate and decorative.

9 ways to protect our bird from illnesses

1.    Good hygiene – regularly clean the bird cage and the appliances in it. The cleaning must be accomplished minimum twice a week .
2.    We mustn't let our birds have contacts with wild or free – living birds, who are the main carriers of diseases and infections .
3.    Do not put the bird cage exposed to draughts – the birds can catch a cold , and they should be exposed to the sun no more than 1 – 2 hours , because they can get overheated and can suffer from hypothermia .
4.    If you have other pet animals – a dog , a cat, first get sure that they are not aggressive towards the birds and only then you can leave them in the same room together.
5.    Examine the bird cage for protruding parts and objects that can hurt the birds .
6.    A very important factor for the good health of the birds is the proper and balanced feeding . Except for grain mixture, they should get enough quantity of fruit and vegetables, from which they will supply themselves with necessary vitamins .
7.    Also, with great importance for the health of birds is the proper supply with minerals . You can buy them from the zoo in combined form.
8.    It is also necessary that your birds get small stones and sand in a separate container , which contributes to the good digestion and food – assimilation.
9.    Overfeeding the birds with proteins of animal origin is very dangerous for them and it can cause podagra and lead to abnormal appetite .

Bird House Building

Birds are great additions to your backyard. Putting up bird houses is an excellent way to attract them. However, not all birds opt to nest in bird houses. Birds differ in their habitat preferences and only cavity-dwellers are probably interested in the bird shelters in your backyard. As it is, these cavity-dwellers also have their own specifications about the kind of house they like. These are minor measurements or feature issues but they are important for the birds. However, there are general guidelines in building these houses.

First, it is important to identify the species of birds that visit your backyard. It is also necessary to distinguish which are the cavity-dwellers from the tree and burrow dwellers. Common cavity-dwellers are wrens, chickadees, bluebirds, and flickers. Choose one you like best and focus your bird house design on it. Even if the idea of building multiple bird houses appeal to you, refrain from doing so because birds are territorial animals.

Second, determine the required dimensions of your chosen bird. Forget asking the birds for these because you'll get no answers. Dimensions of bird houses include entrance-hole, height, depth, and floor size. Smaller birds like wren and chickadees usually prefer 4x4 floor size and a reasonable 8" depth. Consult a bird book or the internet for information regarding the measurements of your bird house.

Third, it is better to use untreated wood and lumber for bird houses. Aside from mimicking the birds' natural habitat, natural wood also minimizes risks of poisoning and overheating. Treated and processed wood like plywood contains preservatives like formaldehyde, which poses serious health hazards to your feathered friends. Lumber that is classified as pressure-treated often contain toxic chemicals which can poison the nesting birds. Paint is also a no-no. Chipping paint can be mistaken by the bird for food and eat it. Also, metals and plastics are not suitable for building avian shelters since they are both prone to overheating. You would want to provide the birds shelter, not an outdoor oven.

Fourth, in drafting or designing a plan for your bird houses, it is important to consider the birds' safety against the elements and predators. Slanted roofs are preferable so rain, dirt, and moisture would not collect on top and rot the wood. It is also preferable that the roofs extend over the sides and front. Perches are not really necessary since cavity-dwellers do not perch. Consider drainage and ventilation needs. Drill small holes on the floor but make sure that these are smaller than the bird's feet. These holes are also best placed on corners to help in draining water out in case of rain. Baby birds drown easily and a bit of collected rainwater in their shelter is enough to send them to their deaths. Aside from the relatively larger entrance holes, place ventilation holes along the house's walls or back. These let heat escape to keep the structure comfortably cool. Placing the bird house atop a pole is a good way to discourage predators like cats and raccoons.

Fifth, maintenance and cleanliness are also factors in bird house building. Unkempt bird houses are causes of diseases, according to experts. To help you in maintaining cleanliness in the bird house, add a backdoor. This way, you can easily remove unused nest and disinfect the vacated house. Droppings and other dirt also contribute to the contamination and cleaning these out limits risks of infecting other birds.

With these tips, you are on your way to designing and building your own bird houses. Help the birds by treating these houses as if you live there. Considering the birds' safety in your bird houses ensure you of longer years with your feathered friends.

Bird Feeder Believed To Attract More Than Birds

Just as the name implies, a bird feeder is a device that is placed outdoors for the purpose of dispensing food to birds. The ultimate success of a bird feeder is determined by it’s placement, the types of seeds provided and the design of the feeder itself.

To begin with, a bird feeder must be large enough to accommodate the nearby species. Birds need to be able to get to the seeds easily if they are to continue to use the bird feeder. In addition, the feeder should be placed somewhere convenient and easily accessible. Most bird feeders are located in a tree that birds are known to frequent.

The type of bird that you wish to attract will ultimately determine the type of food that you supply in the bird feeder. For example, while most food is made in the form of seeds, hummingbirds prefer liquid nourishment. This is a very important distinction as bird feeders are created for birdwatching and, without the proper food, there may not be any birds to watch.

Many people around the world enjoy birdwatching and some even record their experiences on video. Some individuals use webcams, while others use a regular camcorder to capture their birds on film. Don’t be surprised, however, if you happen to capture a squirrel on video. These little creatures are famous for helping themselves to the contents of a bird feeder and not even so much to eat the food, but rather to carry it away and store it elsewhere. There are, however, a number of bird feeder manufacturers that create their products with the hope of deterring squirrels from swiping all of the seeds. This may include a collapsible bird feeder if anything heavier than a bird should begin to feed or one that provides a slight shock or spins to throw the squirrel a short distance away.

A bird feeder is easy to find at any retail or online store, but the many choices available may make the decision a difficult one. Ultimately, the size of the feeder and it’s design will be the most important consideration.

Often, the most effective way of keeping a squirrel away from a bird feeder is to set out a squirrel feeder. Corn and berries are among the foods that may interest a squirrel and may keep him/her occupied so as to not disturb the bird feeder. These creatures, themselves, can add quite a lot of amusement and birds may find themselves sharing the spotlight as many birdwatchers turn toward watching squirrels, as well.

Poisons and Toxic Chemicals

Protect Your Bird from
Poisons and Toxic Chemicals

Print this Chart as a Reminder of What
Poisonous Plants and Chemicals Can Harm Your Pet Bird

Poisonous Plants that are Harmful to Birds
Amaryllis Avocado Azalea Balsam Pear Baneberry Beans: Castor, Horse, Peas, Navy, Glory Bird Of Paradise Black Locust Blue-Green Algae Boxwood Calla Lily Cherry Tree Christmas Candle Coral Plant Daffodil Dieffenbachia Eggplant Elephant's Ear Foxglove	Hemlock Holly Hyacinth Hydrangea Indian Turnip Iris Ivy ** All Types Java Bean Jerusulem Cherry Jimsonweed Juniper Larkspur Lily of the Valley Lobelia Locoweed Marijuana Mayapple Mistletoe Mock Orange Morning Glory Narcissus	Oak Oleander Philodendron Poison Ivy & Oak Poinsettia Pikeweed Potato Privet Rhododendron Rhubarb Rosary Peas Sandbox Tree Skunk Cabbage Snowdrop Sweet Pea Tobacco Virginia Creeper Wisteria Yam Bean Yew
Sources of Fumes that are Toxic to Birds
Asbestos Bleach / Chlorine Carbon Monoxide Cigarette Smoke Diazanon Flea Bombs and Collars Floor Polishes Formaldehyde Hair Dye and Spray House Paint Kerosene Matches Moth Balls Nail Polish & Remover Oil Paint	Oven Cleaner Overheated Nonstick Cookware **Teflons** Paint Remover Perfume Permanent Wave Solution Pesticides Shoe Polish and Cleaners Spot Removers Spray Starch Suntan Lotions Surgical Acrylics Toilet Cleaners Wax	***This is by no means a complete list. If you are unsure, read the label, seek more information from maker. When in doubt, don't use!!
Emergency Phone Numbers
Regular Vet
24-Hour Vet
Other Emergency Contact

Basic Bird Care Guide

For Parrots and Other Pet Birds

There is a great deal of literature available concerning exotic birds, but careful attention must be paid to obtaining current information. Read magazines, go to bird shows, talk to breeders and other experts and join bird clubs. It is important to keep reading and expanding your knowledge.

Virtually all species of parrots are either endangered or soon will be. Domestically bred, hand-raised parrots make infinitely superior pets and do not deplete wild populations. Insist on purchasing a domestic bird.

DIET

How long would you stay healthy on a diet of seeds and water? Well, the same holds true for parrots. In fact, an excellent rule of thumb for birds is: "If it's good for me, it's good for my parrot!"

Try the three bowl system.

• Fresh water
• Fresh Veggies and fruits
• Pellets, nuts and seeds

All bowls should be washed dally with soap and hot water. Drinking water should be changed frequently, ("if you wouldn't drink it...") and should not be placed directly beneath a perch or favorite toy.

THE MAINSTAYS OF YOUR BIRD'S DIET

Apple Bananas Berries Broccoli Carrots Cauliflower Cheese
Chilies Collard Greens Corn Grains Grapes Green Beans Kale
Mango Melon Orange Papaya Pasta (raw or cooked) Pear Peas
Popcorn Spinach Whole Wheat Breads Yogurt More specifically...

A good seed mixture should be provided, but only in an amount which can be eaten daily. Avoid sunflower seeds and limit peanuts, as they are high in fat compared to their nutritional value. Pelleted foods provide a much more complete diet than seeds and nuts alone but should still be given in conjunction with a variety of fresh foods.

Cooked foods are also great, such as mashed potatoes, sweet potatoes, carrots, beans, eggs, rice, etc. Most birds will enjoy cooked chicken, skinned and on the bone (which they will also eat).

ABSOLUTE NO-NOS..

Avocado, chocolate, caffeine, heavily salted or greasy foods, alcohol and fruit pits. Many of these are toxic and can kill your bird.

If your bird doesn't jump right into the first bowl of spinach you give him, remember:

Persist ... Persist ... Persist

Provide a good variety of foods and don't be afraid to be creative. Vitamin supplements are available, but avoid those given in your bird's water.

BATHING

Yes, birds need baths. In fact, most birds love being bathed.

There are three basic ways to introduce wings to water:

1. Fill a clean spray bottle with tepid water and set the nozzle to mist. Hold the bottle about 18 inches from the bird and let the fun begin!
2. Take your bird in the shower with you. (Just don't tell your friends!)
3. Set up a "bird bath" in the sink or with a shallow bowl and an inch or two of water.

How often ...

Two or three times a week should be enough and if at first the bird seems afraid, be gentle and be persistent. Soon he will be begging for more.

After a bath, gently towel off the excess water and avoid drafts. Remember, parrots are tropical birds. Always supervise all bathing carefully, as parrots cannot swim. After a bath, many birds love to be blown dry. Set the dryer to warm, not hot, and keep at least 12" to 18" away.

MEDICAL CARE

All birds should have a thorough medical exam no more than 72 hours after they come home with you. This is for your protection as well as the bird's; most health guarantees expire within 3 to 7 days. Remember, not all vets are avian specialists. Use an avian vet exclusively.

In the wild, birds mask symptoms of illness so as not to be perceived as weak and easily subject to predation. An illness may be quite advanced at the onset of any perceivable symptoms. Do not hesitate to contact your avian vet at the first signs of Illness (loss of appetite, any discharge from eyes, nares and beak, runny or irregular droppings, sitting fluffed, wheezing, sneezing, listlessness, or a decrease in body weight of more than 10%.

It is a good idea to purchase a small digital bird scale and weigh your bird every few days). Any bleeding or vomiting should be treated immediately, as these are usually related to serious conditions. Animal styptic powders are available at most pet stores and should be kept for use in an emergency. A common source of bleeding is an injury to a blood-feather--one that is still growing in and has a supply of blood. While this can be dangerous, the bleeding usually stops when the feather is pulled out. An avian vet can show you how.

GROOMING

All parrots' wings should be clipped to prevent flight. There are a dozen good reasons for this, not the least of which is the possibility of your friend escaping forever. Nails also need to be clipped. Frequent, minor clippings are better than waiting two or three months. Until you are properly trained, have all grooming work done by a qualified vet or groomer.

SAFETY

Use Common Sense.

Keep birds away from anything that should not be chewed because if your bird gets near it, it will be. Knives, electrical cords, small glass and plastic items and the like can be fatal. Make certain that any staples or perfume samples are removed from magazines that are given as toys. Be aware that some house plants are toxic to birds. Click here for a list of toxic plants, or ask your avian veterinarian.

Coated, non-stick cookware gives off fumes that will kill your bird. This goes double for self cleaning ovens, which can cause your bird to keel over on the spot. (You can use the oven, just don't use the self-cleaning feature.) Also, birds are easily poisoned by lead. (One common source is the tops of certain wine bottles.) Keep birds away from all household chemicals, such as hairspray, bleach, cleansers, etc. If any amount of lead is ingested, the bird must be treated immediately.

HOUSING

Quite simply...

Buy the biggest cage you can afford!

Your bird should be able to flap his wings without hitting the sides, but the bars must be close enough together so he can't get his head through. There should be room for PLENTY of toys and at least two perches of varying diameters to let the bird climb around. The cage should be easy to clean, have smooth welds, must close securely and allow for a lock.

Powder-coated finishes are easier to clean and resist corrosion. This is important because parrots are chewers and certain paints, rust or wrought iron can be very dangerous. Place the cage in an area of bright (but not direct) sunlight and avoid drafts. Cages must be kept clean.

Birds should have a separate play area away from the cage, such as a playpen or a perch.

TOYS

Toys are imperative to the happiness of your parrot

Parrots are highly intelligent, curious, playful and tactile. Give your bird a variety of toys and change them every few days. Avoid toys on open link chains, bent wires or other devices that could injure your bird's beak. Many household items such as paper towel rolls, cardboard boxes, paperback books, magazines (remove the staples) and cardboard beer six-packs (remove the beer) can occupy your bird for hours. If your bird is afraid of a new toy, leave it in the room within his line of sight and gradually move it closer to the cage. Once the bird shows interest in it, put it in the cage.

INTERACTION

You must spend time with your parrot.

It is essential both for his happiness and for the formation of a trusting, peaceful relationship between the two of you. Exotic birds are not decorations for your home. They are emotionally sensitive and highly Intelligent creatures; recent studies have placed them on the level of primates and marine mammals.

Small parrots can live 25 years; large ones up to 75 years and may well outlive you. Many of the species are endangered, so the decision to buy an exotic bird is not one to be taken lightly. While an Amazon may not require as much scratching and cuddling as a cockatoo, they are all genetically social animals and need to be played with and talked to every day. To fail to do so is nothing less than cruel, and may turn your sweet, interactive little pet into an unpleasant house partner.

But it is precisely this social aspect of exotic birds that makes them so special. It you invest time and love in one of these intelligent, entertaining, social and beautiful creatures, you will be rewarded with a relationship unequaled between man and animal.

Basic Bird Care Guide

For Parrots and Other Pet Birds

There is a great deal of literature available concerning exotic birds, but careful attention must be paid to obtaining current information. Read magazines, go to bird shows, talk to breeders and other experts and join bird clubs. It is important to keep reading and expanding your knowledge.

Virtually all species of parrots are either endangered or soon will be. Domestically bred, hand-raised parrots make infinitely superior pets and do not deplete wild populations. Insist on purchasing a domestic bird.

DIET

How long would you stay healthy on a diet of seeds and water? Well, the same holds true for parrots. In fact, an excellent rule of thumb for birds is: "If it's good for me, it's good for my parrot!"

Try the three bowl system.

• Fresh water
• Fresh Veggies and fruits
• Pellets, nuts and seeds

All bowls should be washed dally with soap and hot water. Drinking water should be changed frequently, ("if you wouldn't drink it...") and should not be placed directly beneath a perch or favorite toy.

THE MAINSTAYS OF YOUR BIRD'S DIET

Apple Bananas Berries Broccoli Carrots Cauliflower Cheese
Chilies Collard Greens Corn Grains Grapes Green Beans Kale
Mango Melon Orange Papaya Pasta (raw or cooked) Pear Peas
Popcorn Spinach Whole Wheat Breads Yogurt More specifically...

A good seed mixture should be provided, but only in an amount which can be eaten daily. Avoid sunflower seeds and limit peanuts, as they are high in fat compared to their nutritional value. Pelleted foods provide a much more complete diet than seeds and nuts alone but should still be given in conjunction with a variety of fresh foods.

Cooked foods are also great, such as mashed potatoes, sweet potatoes, carrots, beans, eggs, rice, etc. Most birds will enjoy cooked chicken, skinned and on the bone (which they will also eat).

ABSOLUTE NO-NOS..

Avocado, chocolate, caffeine, heavily salted or greasy foods, alcohol and fruit pits. Many of these are toxic and can kill your bird.

If your bird doesn't jump right into the first bowl of spinach you give him, remember:

Persist ... Persist ... Persist

Provide a good variety of foods and don't be afraid to be creative. Vitamin supplements are available, but avoid those given in your bird's water.

BATHING

Yes, birds need baths. In fact, most birds love being bathed.

There are three basic ways to introduce wings to water:

1. Fill a clean spray bottle with tepid water and set the nozzle to mist. Hold the bottle about 18 inches from the bird and let the fun begin!
2. Take your bird in the shower with you. (Just don't tell your friends!)
3. Set up a "bird bath" in the sink or with a shallow bowl and an inch or two of water.

How often ...

Two or three times a week should be enough and if at first the bird seems afraid, be gentle and be persistent. Soon he will be begging for more.

After a bath, gently towel off the excess water and avoid drafts. Remember, parrots are tropical birds. Always supervise all bathing carefully, as parrots cannot swim. After a bath, many birds love to be blown dry. Set the dryer to warm, not hot, and keep at least 12" to 18" away.

MEDICAL CARE

All birds should have a thorough medical exam no more than 72 hours after they come home with you. This is for your protection as well as the bird's; most health guarantees expire within 3 to 7 days. Remember, not all vets are avian specialists. Use an avian vet exclusively.

In the wild, birds mask symptoms of illness so as not to be perceived as weak and easily subject to predation. An illness may be quite advanced at the onset of any perceivable symptoms. Do not hesitate to contact your avian vet at the first signs of Illness (loss of appetite, any discharge from eyes, nares and beak, runny or irregular droppings, sitting fluffed, wheezing, sneezing, listlessness, or a decrease in body weight of more than 10%.

It is a good idea to purchase a small digital bird scale and weigh your bird every few days). Any bleeding or vomiting should be treated immediately, as these are usually related to serious conditions. Animal styptic powders are available at most pet stores and should be kept for use in an emergency. A common source of bleeding is an injury to a blood-feather--one that is still growing in and has a supply of blood. While this can be dangerous, the bleeding usually stops when the feather is pulled out. An avian vet can show you how.

GROOMING

All parrots' wings should be clipped to prevent flight. There are a dozen good reasons for this, not the least of which is the possibility of your friend escaping forever. Nails also need to be clipped. Frequent, minor clippings are better than waiting two or three months. Until you are properly trained, have all grooming work done by a qualified vet or groomer.

SAFETY

Use Common Sense.

Keep birds away from anything that should not be chewed because if your bird gets near it, it will be. Knives, electrical cords, small glass and plastic items and the like can be fatal. Make certain that any staples or perfume samples are removed from magazines that are given as toys. Be aware that some house plants are toxic to birds. Click here for a list of toxic plants, or ask your avian veterinarian.

Coated, non-stick cookware gives off fumes that will kill your bird. This goes double for self cleaning ovens, which can cause your bird to keel over on the spot. (You can use the oven, just don't use the self-cleaning feature.) Also, birds are easily poisoned by lead. (One common source is the tops of certain wine bottles.) Keep birds away from all household chemicals, such as hairspray, bleach, cleansers, etc. If any amount of lead is ingested, the bird must be treated immediately.

HOUSING

Quite simply...

Buy the biggest cage you can afford!

Your bird should be able to flap his wings without hitting the sides, but the bars must be close enough together so he can't get his head through. There should be room for PLENTY of toys and at least two perches of varying diameters to let the bird climb around. The cage should be easy to clean, have smooth welds, must close securely and allow for a lock.

Powder-coated finishes are easier to clean and resist corrosion. This is important because parrots are chewers and certain paints, rust or wrought iron can be very dangerous. Place the cage in an area of bright (but not direct) sunlight and avoid drafts. Cages must be kept clean.

Birds should have a separate play area away from the cage, such as a playpen or a perch.

TOYS

Toys are imperative to the happiness of your parrot

Parrots are highly intelligent, curious, playful and tactile. Give your bird a variety of toys and change them every few days. Avoid toys on open link chains, bent wires or other devices that could injure your bird's beak. Many household items such as paper towel rolls, cardboard boxes, paperback books, magazines (remove the staples) and cardboard beer six-packs (remove the beer) can occupy your bird for hours. If your bird is afraid of a new toy, leave it in the room within his line of sight and gradually move it closer to the cage. Once the bird shows interest in it, put it in the cage.

INTERACTION

You must spend time with your parrot.

It is essential both for his happiness and for the formation of a trusting, peaceful relationship between the two of you. Exotic birds are not decorations for your home. They are emotionally sensitive and highly Intelligent creatures; recent studies have placed them on the level of primates and marine mammals.

Small parrots can live 25 years; large ones up to 75 years and may well outlive you. Many of the species are endangered, so the decision to buy an exotic bird is not one to be taken lightly. While an Amazon may not require as much scratching and cuddling as a cockatoo, they are all genetically social animals and need to be played with and talked to every day. To fail to do so is nothing less than cruel, and may turn your sweet, interactive little pet into an unpleasant house partner.

But it is precisely this social aspect of exotic birds that makes them so special. It you invest time and love in one of these intelligent, entertaining, social and beautiful creatures, you will be rewarded with a relationship unequaled between man and animal.

Why Caffeine is Toxic to Birds

Chocolate contains a substance called theobromine. Caffeine & theobromine belong to a chemical class of alkaloids called methylated xanthines. These are found in coals, coffee, tea & in chocolate. As a class of drugs, Methylated xanthines cause central nervous system (CNS) stimulation, diuresis (flushing of fluids through the body), cardiac (heart) muscle stimulation, & smooth muscle stimulation.

Methylxanthines are absorbed very quickly & easily from the oral cavity & intestinal tract. The liver is needed to metabolize these chemicals, & the waste products are excreted in the urine. These chemicals primarily affect the CNS & kidneys. These chemicals cause increased motor activity & also result in tachycardia (too fast a heart beat.) Because of the increased motor activity, seizures may occur. The kidneys may be affected causing diuresis & very high urine output. This may lead to dehydration. Respirations may become too rapid, & hyperthermia (too high a body temperature) may occur, resulting in death. There is NO antidote for these drugs. We may only treat symptoms with supportive care & drugs to decrease their severity.

Toxic dosages for birds are not well established. In dogs the toxic dose is approximately 200 mg/kg of body weight. In cats the lethal dosage is only 80 to 150 mg/kg of body weight. (higer metabolism means that less is needed to cause toxic effects.) A cup of coffee may contain 35 to 85 mg. A 12 ounce bottle of cola contains approx 50 mg. Now these levels would mean that a 1 kg (2.2kg) cat would need to drink1 1/2 to 3 colas for death to occur. However, since a bird has a much higher metablolism than a cat, & a much smaller body size than a cat, we can safely say that it would take a much smaller dose for toxic effects & possibly death to occur.

Since we are unsure of the toxic dosages in birds, one definitely should avoid ALL caffeine & chocolate consumption for pet birds. (theobromeine & caffeine are both found in chocolate-- this means that chocolate packs a double whammy!) I reccommend that these substances be avoided in ALL pet species.

I feel that my birds have enough energy as it is. Why rev their systems up even more???

Bird Care Guide

Are you thinking of getting a new bird as a pet? Each species is unique and wonderful in its own way but there are some general guidelines that apply to them all.

Be sure the bird you choose is healthy. A sick bird is no bargain no matter what the price. By the time a bird shows any symptoms of disease, illness has usually become quite advanced. If a bird appears droopy, ruffled, tired or hides his head under his wing, this is not the bird for you. If he sneezes, sits on the bottom of the cage, has a discharge above his nostrils or droppings stuck to his tail feathers, there may be big problems. If he makes clicking sounds as he breathes or if his tail bobs, the bird may have serious respiratory disease and you should choose another individual.

Signs of good health in a bird include bright eyes, clean shiny feathers, good appetite and lots of energy. Healthy birds eat often and are active. To help insure a healthy pet, obtain your bird from a reputable bird store or breeder.

Take your new bird to an avian veterinarian for a "well bird check up" immediately. Good pet stores will allow you to return a sick bird. This insures that you get a healthy pet, and lets you meet an avian veterinarian in your area. It also helps the pet store or breeder maintain healthy birds.

During your bird's check up, the avian vet can advise you as to diet, maintenance, training, hygiene and medical needs. Be wary of any pet store that claims the bird needs no medical attention. It is important for ALL birds to have routine check ups, one when newly purchased and then every year for healthy birds.

Now, how about setting up your bird's new home? You want it to be safe and comfortable. Buy the largest cage you can reasonably manage in your home. Be sure he can not slip his head between the bars. It should be convenient to clean and allow easy access to food and water containers. The perches should be of varying sizes, preferably of natural branches. These can be purchased at pet stores or you can collect your own. Manzanita, madrona and eucalyptus are all safe woods for birds to chew. Rinse them off before placing them in the cage. If you have other birds, place your new bird in an isolated room since many birds harbor contagious, disease causing organisms. This is very important to the well being of all of your feathered pets. The avian vet can advise you as to the safety of introducing him to your other birds when you have the exam.

Bird's diets vary greatly from one species to another, but a good rule is that no more than 50% of a bird's diet should be seed and nuts. The remaining 50% should be vegetables, leafy greens, fruits, small amount of cheese, lean cooked meats, boiled egg and other "people foods" with a powdered vitamin supplement added. Many birds love yogurt. All need fresh water daily.

Avoid walnut shell bedding material for the cage bottom. This frequently carries a fungal infection called aspergillus. Paper towel or corn cob bedding is all fine. Clean or replace them daily.

Finding an avian veterinarian can be difficult. Many vets do not treat birds, so it is important to find a specialist in avian care. Sometimes the breeder or pet store where you purchased your bird will have a referral to a local avian practitioner. If you are having a difficulty finding one, call your local Veterinary Medical Association for a referral.

Nutrition

What does your bird need? We now know that seed is not the only food needed by pet birds, and in fact, birds on a seed only diet, are very unhealthy. Only 50% of a bird's diet should be seed. Of the other 50%, fruits and vegetables are the most important. This is where he obtains vital minerals and vitamins. If your bird is reluctant to try new foods, try cutting the fruits and vegies into small, seed size pieces. Sometimes mixing them into the seed helps. It is all right to cut back on his seed a bit. "Hunger is the best sauce" as they say. It is also okay to remove his seed for most of the day, offering it only for an hour in the morning, and an hour in the evening. During the day he will have only fruits and vegies to eat. If he is a little hungry, he will try new foods.

Out in the wild, birds eat a wide variety of nuts, small pieces of meat, even another bird's eggs occasionally. So how do we duplicate this variety? A good rule of thumb is, if a food is healthy for a human, it is healthy for your bird. Birds enjoy spaghetti or a bit of chicken. Hard boiled egg is often a big hit. Almonds, walnuts or other nuts are fine in small quantities. Many birds love cheeses and yogurt. Monkey chow is a tasty treat and an excellent source of protein for birds. It is available at most pet stores. Cuttlebone and mineral blocks are a good source of calcium. If you have any questions about whether a food is good for your bird, call your avian vet for more information.

To make sure he's getting everything he needs, supply fresh water. Some species, such as cockatiels and budgies, drink very little water and may benefit from a powdered vitamin sprinkled on moist food.

Pet Bird Safety

Those of us who have raised puppies and kittens know how dangerous a house can be. Mischievous, exploring young pets seem to find every available risky item in the first 24 hours of arrival. Having learned too dog- and cat-proof a house, we may feel prepared to safely welcome a pet bird into our lives. There are surprises in store. Birds add a whole new dimension to pet safety worries.

Unlike dogs and cats, birds fly. Birds fly into windows or mirrors, injuring themselves in the process. Decals or curtains allow a flying bird to see them and avoid a crash. Birds fly out of windows, never to be seen again. Screens are essential for windows and doors. When a bird is out of its cage, always remain nearby.

Even a bird with properly clipped wing feathers can flutter to disaster around the house. A ceiling fan should be an obvious "no-no," but other mechanical appliances can be equally dangerous. Birds have been injured falling into electric beaters in the kitchen. They can fly and land on hot surfaces or into scalding water. Expect the unexpected with birds. If you open the hot oven, your parrot may pop right in!

If your bird is always confined to its cage, some of these precautions may seem excessive. Remember, escape is always possible, and accidents do happen. Besides, an owner of a well-trained bird will want to spend lots of quality time with the bird at this or her side (or shoulder). Most birds thrive on attention and human interaction, but wither with neglect. Plan for avian safety in all the rooms of your home.

Birds are exquisitely sensitive to toxins, especially those in the air they breathe. Remember about the canary in the mine shaft giving warning of gas accumulation? Cleaners, such as those used to degrease ovens, produce dangerous airborne contaminants and can be fatal to birds. Even strong cooking odors and smoke is a risk. Non-stick cookware is another worry. When overheated, the fumes can kill birds.

Birds can drown in small amounts of water. Upright narrow glasses are a danger as is very hot water (birds don't expect the water to be hot). The toilet bowl, uncovered, has been the source of many avian injuries. Birds do like water play, and with supervision, many even enjoy showers with their owners. Bath perfumes and hair spray must be avoided around birds.

Chewing is the next big concern with birds. Most birds chew anything they can get their beaks on. We must provide safe woods and chew toys to allow this natural, healthy exercise. It is also essential to keep the house clear of dangerous items. Anything made of lead is forbidden (fishing weights, stained glass, metal toys, costume jewelry). Electric cords should be hidden and protected. Avoid poisonous house plants.

As you get in the habit of thinking about kinds of things that poison birds, you will automatically avoid the dangers. Remember, things that smell strong to us can often kill birds. Felt tip pens are aromatic and poisonous to birds. Nail polish and remover, paint fumes, cigarette smoke, colored ink and aerosol sprays of all kinds should be avoided. Other pets, such as cats, must be kept safely away.

There are many items to remember and dangers to avoid in keeping your pet birds safe around the house. Prevention, however, is always preferable to emergency medical intervention! Keep the name and number of your trusted avian vet handy just in case.

Knowing When Your Bird is Sick

Birds who die "suddenly" have usually been sick and no one knew it. But take heart, there are some good indicators of poor health. You only have to know what to look for. Once you learn the signs of early illness, needed treatments can be performed by your avian veterinarian.

Some of the best indicators of health is the bird's droppings. The droppings are made up of feces, normally black or dark green. With this will be urine, which is clear, and urates, a creamy white waste material. Droppings with a mustard yellow liquid portion is not normal, nor is blood or rusty brown color in feces. Healthy birds eat often and make lots of droppings. A sick bird may have fewer droppings, or no fecal portion in them, just white and liquid.

Another indicator of illness is change in eating and drinking habits, for example, excessive water consumption. A bird who isn't interested in food indefinitely is ill. A change in attitude or behavior can signal illness. Has he stopped talking, or does he appear sleepy and lethargic? Is he huddled on the bottom of the cage or sitting low and ruffled? Is he hiding his head under his wing? How about his feathers? Are they dull? Has he stopped preening himself? How about weight loss? Any of these symptoms indicates potentially serious problems.

Another sure sign of illness is any hint of respiratory distress. Open mouth breathing or any audible sounds, like clicking or wheezing are certain problems. A tail bob is actually a sign of respiratory distress! Vomiting in birds is very abnormal unless it is regurgitating to feed a mate or baby. Any discharge from the eyes or nostrils is a sign of illness, as is a swelling around the eyes. Of course, any injury or bleeding requires immediate veterinary care. A broken "blood feather" must be pulled immediately to stop the bleeding. These new, immature feathers are recognized by their protective "cellophane-like" wrap and their visible blood supply.

If your bird displays any of these signs, take the bird to your avian vet. Meanwhile, keep the bird warm: 85 degrees is ideal with access to a cooler area. An ordinary heating pad wrapped around on the side of the cage is fine. Offer food and water, placing it on the cage bottom if the bird is weak. Never give your own medicines, antibiotics or pet store cures to your bird. These can do more harm then good. Your avian vet will prescribe appropriate and SAFE medications.

Trimming Wings, Beaks and Toe Nails

Any bird in your home needs his wings trimmed unless he is an aviary bird. Concussions often occur when birds fly into windows or mirrors. Serious burns result from birds flopping into pots over stove flames. Many beloved birds fly out open windows or doors and are never seen again!

Wing trims can be performed at home, or you may choose to have your avian vet do it. It is best to watch an experienced person perform a wing trim before doing it yourself. Never cut a "blood feather." This is a new feather still in its sheath. It has a prominent blood supply and will bleed if cut or broken. If you accidentally cut one, the only to stop the bleeding is to grasp the wing and pull the feather out at the base. The best wing trims allow the bird to flutter to the ground but not maintain flight. This is accomplished by cutting feathers of both wings. Once a wing trim has been done, hold your bird close to the ground, allowing him to gradually discover that he can not fly.

Some birds' beaks may never need trimming, but others have overgrown tips or cracks that need smoothing. The beak has a blood and nerve supply and it is a good idea to let your avian bet decide how much, if any, should be removed. Most vets have a special tiny sanding tool to use. This is not recommended at home. Birds with "scissor beak," a mal-alignment of the upper and lower beak structures, can be helped by routine trims and shaping.

Nail trimming is the most common avian grooming procedure. This can be done at home, but again it is advisable to learn from an expert. The nails will bleed during a nail trim, and a styptic powder such as "Quik-stop" will stop the bleeding. Parrots may have nails that become very sharp and painful to the person on whose shoulder they are perched. Do not give your bird sandpaper perches in hopes of wearing the nails down. These perches cause serious foot problems, including chronic ulcerated sores, and do little for the nails.

We hope that this information sheet has helped you with setting up your house in preparation of your new feathered friend.

WOW WHAT A BEAUTY

BEAUTY OF PARROTS

BEAUTY OF GOD